Michael Kors Fall 2009 runway show, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Tailoring was a focus. As if to prove that he can sniff out a trend, the designer tossed in a few jackets of the sort that have been making the rounds this week—some short-sleeved with squared-off, tucked shoulders; others with cutouts around the lapels. But Kors was at his strongest when he was thinking sleek: elongating, stretch gabardine cigarette trousers; a pantsuit almost as narrow as the chalk stripes on its charcoal flannel; double-face peacoats and balmacaans.